I wonder if I'm the first person in the perfume-lovers community to review the newly released Rose Kashmirie from Les Parfums de Rosine? You should know that I'm a bit of a recent convert to this line, after having become drawn to unusual combinations with rose at their core just over a year ago while decanting a bit of Guerlain's Rose Barbare from a bottle I bought for someone in Paris. I followed it up with Serge Luten's Rose de Nuit, aptly described by someone else as a winey rose, and got properly hooked on rich rose scents, until summer hit (May in LA) and lighter roses began to appeal. I continued my ambivalent relationship with Ormonde-Jayne's Ta'if, which finally ended with us parting ways, and I happily rediscovered the Rosine scents with a sample of Rose D'Argent from a great perfume friend. I was immediately captivated by its interesting blend of Anise, Geranium and Rose, which morphs into something else altogether, a "happy" scent that never fails to lift my spirits. Hardly any of the rose scents I like really smell very much like a rose, but they wouldn't exist without it. This is all part of the magic of perfumery, which is why we are all here!
When announcements appeared in June about the release of Rose Kashmirie with the following detailed and romantic notes worthy of California Cuisine in the 80's, I knew I had to try it....
Top Notes: Red strands of saffron from Kashmiria, Essence of Bulgarian Rose, Spicy seeds of coriander, Green peel of Sicilian bergamot
Heart notes: Red peonies from China, Damascene Rose absolute, Resin from myrrh or Bdellium (?!) from India
Base notes: Woodsy oil from Nagar Motha, Black vanilla pods, Roots of Indian vetiver or Khus, Sacred sandalwood, Benzoin tears, Ambrette seeds that smell of musk, Ambergris
I'm realizing that there are certain notes used in scent that will always get my attention, and they are not just the usual suspects. Saffron, clove (and most aromatic spices), geranium, honey, most woods (except for cedar and oud), frankincense and myrrh. Not only do I adore these scents on their own, but they often seem to be used in interesting ways. I find that what I am most often after in a scent are the simultaneous sensations of effortlessness and stimulation. The ones I respond to most are usually masterfully blended but with a surprising twist, and this finally brings me to Rose Kashmirie!
When my bottle arrived in the hands of a friend a couple of weeks ago I ripped off the cellophane there and then to get to the bottle and spritz, and I was sort of thrilled and a bit disappointed. The light and breezy aspect of the Rosine scents are not my usual style, as I tend to like more richness and gravitas, but it did have the uplifting quality that I can't help but respond to. As I drove home I kept sniffing, and I got to a sort of murky green moment that made me think that alas I wasn't going to be able to love this one................at least I had my scent pals waiting with bated breath to get their hands on some and they could make up their own minds. Now the day I got my hands on this scent was one of our silly 90 degree Ocotober days, and I noticed about an hour later that there was a wonderful scent in the air, and realized that it had to be coming from me! The RK had bloomed surprisingly beautifully -- I had to revisit it right away, and re-experience the top/middle/bottom affect. This time I didn't much mind that murky middle as I could sense the transmutation of the scent, the perfumer's art resulting in the alchemy that is perfume.
So this is what happens when I spritz Rose Kashmirie - the first burst of the sweet/tart blend of spice, citrus and rose is quite delightful, a kind of honeyed spiced citrusy rose. At the end of this phase, it reminds me a bit of Creed's Fleur de The Rose Bulgare because of that rose Sicilian Bergamot effect, but it is also rather sweet and feminine, which must come from the saffron rose combo. ( I often forget that I like sweetness in spicy scents). I think that funny middle period comes when the "Ambrette seeds that smell of musk" joins in, and for some reason it surfaces for a few minutes almost as if it is on it's own before the scent it becomes its true self, a lovely sum of it's parts, at once warm, bittersweet, spiced and earthy. Rose Kashmirie really makes me wonder about the magic of scent development, how the labels of top, middle, and bottom notes don't really address the mysterious ways scents combine their different volatilities which ebb and flow at different stages to make the perfumes we love or hate. Bravo François Robert and Rosine!
Beautiful review, as always. Bravo! Rose Kashmirie sounds absolutely amazing. I'm such a fan of this house. I love the gorgeous photos you chose, too--you have such a good eye for these things. Sending you the best of wishes. XO
Posted by: Dust, Glitter, and Vapor | November 10, 2007 at 06:27 PM
It sounds beautiful, and I love the photos you chose!
Posted by: Marina | December 07, 2007 at 05:23 AM
Hope you had a blessed Christmas!! Wishing you and yours a happy and prosperous 2008!!!
Posted by: Gypsy Purple | December 27, 2007 at 07:29 PM
I'm usually kind of averse to rose scents since it's so hard to find ones that are true to the flower but you're forcing me to try this one...
Posted by: tmp00 | January 14, 2008 at 09:42 PM
Tom, I'm afraid RK might be a bit sweet for you, but I'd be happy to send you a sample, it's still very rare in these parts. It still fits my definition of Beauty in a fragrance, a concept rather unexplored these days, don't you think? Thanks for stopping by, sorry I'm such a sporadic blogger!
Posted by: Qwendy | January 16, 2008 at 07:11 PM
The Sniffapalooza group that visited Paris was welcomed in Rosine's lovely shop. We were given several samples from which my favorite was Zest of Rose. The citrus tempered the fragrance making it a good one for summer or any gloomy day. Sometimes thought to be old fashioned and dated, rose may have come around again. For some of us, the rich, deep scent never lost its allure. Love your illustrations on the site.
Posted by: scentdoe | March 12, 2008 at 08:22 AM
Hi there, thanks for stopping by and for the compliments -- I'm sorry I don't blog more! I can't wait to go to Rosine in May myself! Viva La Rose!
Posted by: Qwendy | March 12, 2008 at 11:28 AM
Wendy,
I went for a long time ignoring my blog and just recently found your comments. I would love to get in touch again and hear more from you on perfume, design, and life.
Chime in!
Cait
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